The airport in Lima was far less intense than anticipated. It was not crowded and we only had to wait about 5 minutes in immigration and customs. Our bags, the surfboard bag and duffle full of ceramic drip water filters, arrived safely. There was a cabby waiting for us with a sign “Logan Howard : Pay Purix.” We chatted a bit on the way to the cab and I gave him my canned line, “Estudié español para cuatro años en mi escuela secondaria.” (I studied Spanish for four years in high school— whoopdie doo!

¡El tráfico en Lima está muy loco! You have to be a charger.

Otherwise you would just sit in the intersection, all day, all night. There are hardly any street signs, only in major intersections.  A stop sign is a rare sight, stoplight even rarer and the rarest sight of all is to see someone who actually abides by these rules. The countdowns on the elusive stoplight are sweet, 30 seconds long, so you have an idea of how long the light is, but people just honk and disregard. There are a mind-boggling number of cabs, buses, trucks & helmet-less motorcyclists. None of the cars are required to be inspected and as for emission standards— there are none. On every corner, and in between, are Limeñeans selling things such as drinks, snacks and ice cream. You will even find strange goods like stuffed rats, mirrors, and crucifixes. You name it— they probably have it somewhere in that bag.

When we arrived at the hostal, Pay Purix, I was relieved. Finally we could get some rest and eat a nice hot meal, accompanied by some frosty beer! Our room, 305, was on the third floor with an interesting view— the bird’s eye to the bar below. A rousing game of ping pong was played and we drank more Cusqueñas and got more rest for the long bus ride we had in store for the morning.

The time had come to head north, via Cruz del Sur, the most luxurious bus line we had even been acquainted with. After another inner-city prayer infused, cab ride we were ready to cruz.

With two beers in hand and our luggage all tucked below, we were ready to go! Go time baby.

We were seated on the top floor in fancy reclining seats equipped with headphones, a magazine, the daily paper, a pillow, a blanket, a bathroom & a full service staff. The ride was long, it took 1.5 hours just get out of Lima city limits, and then another ten hours to our next stop… Trujillo. The ride was full of bingo, crappy movies, and many impressive sights to behold.

Chapter 2: Happy to be in Huanchaco