Here we are.
Now we find ourselves. We sit close to the dust of the earth, the edge of the universe, the thin line between past, present & future. We are in the oldest surf community in the world, but don’t tell the Hawaiians that. The land of the eternal spring, eternal haze, eternal surf. Huanchaco is a secluded beach community 15 minutes north of Trujillo, the largest city in the land of the north, el norte. It is not an easy place by any means. Not easy to get to, nor easy to find, nor easy to be a native of. Unless you are one of the fat pigeons munching on man’s party leftovers.
We stayed at the oceanfront oasis known as Naylamp. Her high cement walls were protected by ancient stone guardians & thick blue glass. The employees were hospitable and the accommodations were all we could have asked for. Habitacion uno was on the first floor which had hammocks, chess & tortoises. A couple day trip turned into a week as we rested from our long travels.
The historic caballitos de totora line the shore, fishermen line the pier & a few surfers are in the line up. Every morning we got up early for a hearty breakfast. The food was phenomenal. On a typical morning we would rise a little after the sun (very few in town did this – I guess most others were just going to bed from partying all night at the International Coming of Spring Festival.) Then we would make our way to the lobby for some cafe, jugo, some fine yogurt (maracuya o piña), pancakes with local honey, and even an eye-opener style breakfast sandwich with bacon, avocado and cheese. Mmm, what a way to start the day & get those metabolisms pumping.
Some days Logan would paddle out before breakfast & we would make the 20 minute walk south of the pier, where the best wave was. He was always the first guy out, and the best guy out. The fog would roll in over the cool morning Pacific giving the scene a black and white feel.
The mists of Huanchaco have spiritual undertones wafting along the solemn shores. Logan would ride into the haze, making turn after turn & just when you would think the wave was done, there was one more turn. He would ride so far I would find myself jogging up the shore, trying to keep my eyes on him.
After a little rinsing off and relaxation we ventured out for lunch. We discovered a busy little hole in the wall, Pisagua, with the most fresh and delicious ceviche. We had the mixto, full of corvina, mariscos, onions, lime, giant corn & yuca root. Perhaps my favorite part of Peruvian dining was the hot, salted, roasted corn-nuts, canchas, which are eaten by the spoonful. They are like big, crunchy popcorn kernels and I love them.
Besides surfing, relaxing & eating, our days were full of exploration. Some days we would venture into towns to check out the various artisans and pick up souvenirs. A couple of times we headed south of town and stumbled across some surf competitions for the primavera festivities. Other gringos and hippies were present. The smell of ganja wafted in the air as guys played hacky sack outside their vintage green VW van. Huanchaco is an old, chill town with lots of soul.
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